Ahh, Cape Breton. The island that forms the northeastern part of the Canadian Province of Nova Scotia. Rich in Scottish culture, they actually helped teach people in Scotland traditional ways after the English had suppressed it across the pond. It is uncanny but Cape Breton and Scotland have practically the same shape, too! They also have the Cabot Trail, a beautiful cycling route nearly 200 miles that encircles the northernmost part of the island.
I visited in late summer hoping to experience both of these.
I began with a drive up from the airport in Portland, Maine. By the time I reached Cape Breton, it was getting dark and I got lost looking for a Celtic square dancing event. Once I finally found it in the town of Mabou, I was drawn in by the simple piano and fiddle that was enough to get everyone up and going. Everyone was very friendly and social and I ended up dancing with some folks who invited me to a Ceilidh at their home. Pronounced "KAY-lee", a ceilidh is a traditional Gaelic event where there is drinking and dancing, and as I was told, "you want to be invited to a house ceilidh." Unfortunately for me, I had plans to cycle the Cabot Trail and would have to miss it. But the organizer told me about a public ceilidh I could attend, and also allowed me to camp out in the yard of the community center for the night.
The following day, I went to Sydney to pick up the bike and then backtracked to Baddeck, where I left my car in a public parking lot for the next 3 days. Baddeck is famous for the place where inventor Alexander Graham Bell worked on many of his inventions, and there is a historical site there that I did not get a chance to visit. It was nearly 2pm before I was ready to start my ride and I needed to get to my destination before it got dark.
Cabot Trail, Day 1
I set out from Baddeck and cycled along the Bras D'Or Lakes before turning onto the Cabot Trail road. There were many ups and downs of hills before one massive hill just before the end. It was green with beautiful vistas overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.
Waterways that reminded me of New England Many signs in Cape Breton are bilingual
(Scots Gaelic)
Looking south along the coast as I climb up a steep hill towards the end of the day.
I made it to Ingonish a bit before 7pm where I was tired from the 4,000+ feet of elevation I had climbed that afternoon. I saw a restaurant advertising that they were open until 9pm, but when I showed up at 8:30pm, they told me that they had moved the closing time to 8pm. I looked around but there was nowhere else open to eat in this little town, I had no car, and I needed fuel if I was to have energy to continue cycling the following day. So, I went back and begged them to prepare something for me, which they did on the condition that I leave them an excellent TripAdvisor review. I was more annoyed that they didn't just honor the hours painted on their sign out front, but beggars can't be choosers, so I agreed.
I stayed at a small hotel that cost about C$97, which is expensive by my standards, but there wasn't much else in the area. Fortunately, the following nights on Cape Breton I would be staying in hostels.
Cabot Trail, Day 2
The second day of the Cabot Trail was similar to the first, but passed through the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Great vistas and coastal views were the order of the day.
Save the Moose? Climbing up a steep hill Sunset in Pleasant Bay
I spent the night in Pleasant Bay, which as its name suggests was a pleasantly quiet place. To my relief, there were a few restaurants to choose from, and I enjoy a big bowl of fresh steamed mussels.
Cabot Trail, Day 3
The downside to Pleasant Bay was that it was at sea level but the only road in and out rose steeply in both directions. Within the first few miles of my ride, I had to climb over 1,000 feet out of the valley that Pleasant Bay was located in. So, I started my ride at 6:30pm to make sure I had plenty of time to make the 80 miles back to my car in Baddeck, with the steep hills factored in. This photo was taken after a few miles of uphill.
Looking back (northbound) on the Cabot Trail that I had cycled down, between Pleasant Bay and Chéticamp.
Before long, I was out of the big hills and things were a bit easier. I coasted in to the French-speaking Acadian town of Chéticamp where I celebrated completing the toughest part of the ride with some breakfast. I then continued south along the coast, where the route meandered through small towns, up and down small hills, but nothing like the near-mountains I had dealt with earlier.
Beautiful field of sunflowers in North East Margaree, Nova Scotia
Further on I had to turn inland to head back towards my starting point. By this point, the bigger hills were starting to get to me, but with a few snack breaks, I powered on.
About 192 miles after leaving, I made it back to Baddeck where my car and other equipment was right where I had left it. I stretched, put the bike rack onto the back of the car, loaded the bike, and headed out.
That night I stayed at a hostel overlooking the Bras D'Or Lakes just east of Wycocomagh. After freshening up and relaxing, I left the bike behind and drove to Port Hawkesbury, where a public ceilidh was scheduled for that evening. Not as spontaneous (or as raucous) as a house ceilidh, it was still my chance to immerse myself in a bit of Scottish culture. The entry was C$10 and I was treated to some great music, even though only 2-3 people were playing at one time!
The view from my guesthouse. Ahhhhh.
Some of the ceilidh performances in Port Hawkesbury
The following day, I returned the bicycle to Sydney and continued to the eastern end of Cape Breton, to the Fresh settlement of Louisbourg. This 18th century settlement was part of the French colony and served one purpose: To produce cod for the French state. They were not allowed to export anything else. Although most of the settlement did not survive, today some of it has been recreated with character actors to explain what life was like back then.
Ramparts in Louisbourg French-style gate at the entrance
where people would arrive